Week 15 Suez Canal, Red Sea, Jeddah and Yanbu al-Bahr, Saudi Arabia

This past week we traversed the Suez Canal and the Red Sea to arrive in Saudi Arabia. Culture shock was the feeling of the week. We will being sailing to Aqaba, Jordan tonight and will arrive there on Sunday. After two days we will return to the Mediterranean Sea via the Canal heading to Egypt.

The Suez Canal is really just a man-made water passage. Most canals require locks to raise and lower the boat/ships to connect two bodies of water. This canal has no locks as the Red Sea and the Mediterranean Sea are at the same sea level. Only two lakes are used to switch which direction is being traversed at which time. We lucked out as Viking Star was the lead vessel heading south on the canal. There was a long line of ships behind us in the first passage but some switch-up in the second passage. I was amazed at the number of cities along this passage way. I knew there were cities but not of that size. It was beautiful to see this aspect of Egypt. We saw a number of fishing boats in the canal and often they were waving to us. I hope when we exit the canal that it is daylight as I want to see the lighthouse marking the entrance.

Tugboats following the Viking Star in the Suez Canal

Leading the Pack but I forgot to take a screen shot of the ships lined up behind us.

Fishermen using a traditional river craft

Panoramic view of one city on the Canal

Mosque along the Canal

Another city, smaller and surrounded by sand and oasis

Note the high-rise apartment buildings in the background. In front is the border patrol area.

The Red Sea has been explored as long ago as 2500 BC. Egyptian Queen Hatshepsut led trade missions in search of gold, incense, and ebony. Napoleon tried to conquer the area but failed. But renowned diver Jacques Cousteau said it best: the Red Sea is "a corridor of marvels" for its diversity of marine life and remarkable visibility of up to 150 feet.

Jeddah is Saudi Arabia's second largest city. The city has long been a major port for Indian Ocean trade starting in the seventh century. Today, it is also a gateway for Muslim pilgrims arriving by sea to the holy cities of Mecca and Medina. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its old town, the distinctive architecture, and its souks (night markets). The city has a very modern side and its historic old district they are trying to restore to attract foreign tourism. There is one problem, their requirements are extremely rigid. The night before we arrived, the ship's crew had to store and lock-up ALL alcohol. The Saudis then boarded the ship upon arrival to inspect and put security tapes on all facilities that held alcohol. Over the two days here, and again when we went to Yanbu al-Bahr, inspectors arrived unannounced and checked all seals. Hefty fines for failing these inspections. We need to be 12 nautical

miles from shore before they can be unsealed. Women were restricted in what we could wear but only if in a mosque were we required to wear the abaya and head covering. We were asked by Viking to try and wear hats for sun protection and showing of respect. This is the first time Viking has been to Saudi Arabia. We just did the included walking tour of the Old City and a drive around the new areas. There was a women only tour led by a female guide who gave us glowing accounts of the freedom women have today. Such as, they may choose different colors of abayas to wear in public and they may attend school. When asked how long, she answered until family can afford to send past elementary but getting better. Sand filled air and dusty streets were the events in the Old City. The guides really tried but had a hard time understanding English and at times speaking English. It was good to visit but no need to return.

The city likes to promote We are No. 1

Tallest flagpole in world. Also, largest outdoor sculpture museum, largest water fountain over the waterfront, etc.

Many buildings have this image on their exteriors.

The ruling family The Sauds.

Many monuments and sculptures around the city but I loved this one across from the Old City Gates.

The Old City Gates

Building from 100s of years ago (guide did not know dates saying only 200 years old)

Most are made from coral stone and wood.

This building is one of a few that has been partially restored. Found out that the three colors of paint used represent the field of business the family practiced- blue for sea trade, green for agriculture, and brown for foreign or other trading.

This section of the city is the "souk" or trade market area mostly open in evenings. This area was a major wholesale fabric area. We were not allowed to buy anything as we were not approved buyers.

I DID NOT GET FABRIC SO I AM IN FABRIC WITHDRAWAL.

A street of fabric and souvenir shops

This is the special architectural detail of the area. al-Rawashin. These bay windows are found everywhere in the Old City. They allowed air to flow through the house and they allowed the women to sit inside and view what was happening on the street without being seen by the men outside. We saw very few women walking around.

Cats were everywhere and most were very skinny. Jeff took a picture of this one because of his markings. There are three black stripes going down his spine and then the almost leopard-like spots elsewhere.

After spending two days in Jeddah we headed to the city of Yanbu al-Bahr. This city has a long history of trade and is another city used by pilgrims on their way to Mecca and/or Medina. During WW I the British and Arab military forces used it as a supply depot and base of operations against the Ottoman Empire. Today, it is being reborn as a new industrial center for the nation, especially petrochemical facilities. The included tour took us to view the new industrial center and the expanding tourism area. Located here were beautiful townhouses, new hotels with beach waterfronts, the tennis courts, soccer fields, fitness centers were all designated for women only or men only. The man-made lake and park were beautiful and Jeff photographed 4 different birds. (Jody Eckler and Ann Barr he said these are for you)

In the Old Town or Yanbu Historical District we could see how the city was trying to repair/restore the old house to try to attract tourism. We saw the building where T.E. Lawrence, of Lawrence of Arabia fame, lived for about a year 1915-1916. It is currently missing the whole front of the structure. We saw a 700 year old grain silo that is being restored. That was a really neat building. We also visited the souk, or night market. The Viking Star was docked about a 2 block walk from the market. Luckily for me we went back to the market after dinner and I found a nice traditional dress. If you paid in US dollars the exchange rate was great. Many of us will be wearing our purchases over the next week or so, including the men. We went out today after lunch and found most were closed as Ramadan started at noon. Interesting, but again no need to return.